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[English: partly modified translation] [für Deutschsprachige: Untertitel unten rechts deaktivieren]
I'm in front of the iranian embassy and I'm now really relieved, because I've got my visa now.
It's time now for travelling. Enjoy the film!
4th to 18th of September 2013
a film by Daniel Seidel
I'm now at the airport Berlin-Schönefeld.
Yesterday, the way to the embassy was like a way to hell. I was afraid that they interrogate me.
And afraid that they reject the request. But everything was okay. They give me even student discount!
Usually I have to pay for urgent application 50% more, but I needn't...
...because I'm a student and I came from far away Dresden, therefore I needn't. Really nice!
After half an hour waiting they gave me my passport with visa, without any questions.
But now my fears are raising a bit. Because I know now, that I'm going to travel to Iran.
Sometimes I think, I won't survive this big adventure. But I came a long way and I'm now here. Here we go.
I ironed my laundry and packed my bag until 6 am, slept just one hour.
A lift brought me from Dresden to Berlin. They were really nice and enthusiastic about my intention.
Now I am here and it now goes on.
TRAVEL TO IRAN
Check-In was successfull. I'm happy that I also passed it.
But they relayed the flight about two and a half hour.
Now I am a bit bored and hungry. So I'm looking for food now. But the prices are here expensive.
As you can see - I am in the transit area of the airport.
Dinner in Istanbul.
I'm sitting now in the decisive flight.
highway between airport and Tehran city, 4.34 am
This prayer room is my temporary place to sleep.
I will tell you tommorow how it comes. Now I want to sleep 2-3 hours. See you.
Good morning. I passed exciting hours.
My first flight alone. And really offside far away from home.
Berling-Istanbul. Cheap flight. You have to pay for food and drinks. No problem - i buyed something at airport
Berlin-Istanbul. Cheap flight. You have to pay for food and drinks. No problem - i buyed something at airport
The stewardess were kind and i passed the flight
Arriving in Istanbul - very clean and modern airport.
We've got three hours delay. So it was really boring waiting at Berlin Airport.
In Istanbul I've got the following flight to Tehran.
By boarding I've got really strange feelings. First time alone in a foreign country without the possibility to return.
Same flight company, same airplane.
The only interesting thing was, that the women tighened their headscarfs by landing.
Passport control without any problems. I picked up my baggage.
I looked for a taxi and at the exit of the airport a taxi driver immediately adressed me.
He didn't speak really English, but we negotiated 20€ to Tehran.
I didn't exchange currency, because the rates at the airport were really bad.
He droves me about 50 km and one hour to the Hotel Firouzeh.
But we needed half an hour to find the hotel after we asked several times.
The traffic in Iran is a real disaster. Everybody drives where he wants and where's enough space.
Keeping the track they don't know. The taxi driver was really fast. I felt like in a computer racing game - but it was real.
At the hotel I didn't get a room at 5 am because check-in time is at 10 am.
That's why they let me into their prayer room and gave me pillow and blanket. I could sleep 5 hours.
I was really happy about it because I didn't sleep really the last nights.
Night before getting the visa just three hours. The following night one hour, because i ironed and packed. And in the airplane I can't sleep.
Now I've got a room in the hotel.
Simple facility. Everything what I need. A bit shabby, but clean and for 13 Euro okay.
Just the toilets I have to share with the other hotel guests.
Now I'm going to take a shower, have breakfast and then I'll discover Tehran.
My first hours in Tehran - unbelievable!
It's strange to be here, but I've seen today some interesting things.
After leaving the hotel - I've just walking through the street - and it was a really strange experience.
In the surroundings of my hotel there are a lot of car accessories seller.
I tried to find currency exchange office, but I didn't find anything.
So I went to the city park and tried to make friends - but it didn't work.
Until I met two people who had got the same guide as I have.
I asked them if they would be Germans and the told me that they're Austrians.
I also asked where I can exchange money in the surroundings. The guidebook told me, that hotels have got bad exchange rates.
But the Austrians told me, that they exchanged 1€ to 40.000 IR. Good rate.
So I went to a luxory hotel and they exchanged 100€ for me by rate 1€ to 41.000 IR.
No I am a real multi millionaire - I've got more than 4 million Iranian Rial.
I became thirsty and I wanted to eat something somewhere on the street. But the streets have been to noisy.
So I went to metro to leave downtown.
A coke at metro station cost 7000 Rial (=0,17€)
I payed with a 500.000 Rial bank note an the sell women was really surprised about it and loughed kindly.
It was for her like I payed with an 500€ bank note. But I got back money from her.
Drinks and food are in Iran really cheap.
Also traveling with the metro. One way ticket just 5000 Rial (=0,12€).
So it is really worth and everything was modern and very clean.
But very full. Women have got own wagons which they can use voluntarily. And they usually do if possible.
But they also can use the standard wagons. Though they don't like because they could *** by men because of the narrowness.
So I travel to the northernmost station.
Thereafter a I run up a few kilometres in direction to the mountains.
I almost died because it have been very exhausting to went this steep way by 32°C.
I wanted to drive with the cable way
But now I am here near to the mountain peaks in a pleasent, calm park.
I noticed next door a mountain roallercoaster. I'm going to drive it equal.
I buyed a pepsi because I was really thirsty after the long way I went.
It was terribly. I'm lucky, that I find here something to drink. I thought here would be nothing. But it is nice here with a great view of Tehran.
Thereafter happened a lot. I drove with the roallercoaster.
I could regulate the speed of my carriage and I had an amazing view of Tehran.
It was an interesting experience to drive a roallercoaster which is situtated on a mountain.
They've taken a photo of me.
I tried to buy my photo, but it was difficult, because they coulndn't speak Englisch. Fortunately the woman behind me could.
So she helped me to buy the photo.
Thereafter I met a few boys who wanted a conversation with me, but they couldn't speak really Englisch.
I realized to late, that they wanted my money instead of intercultural exchange.
Later I noticed that I missed my earphones.
I went back and looked confused. The woman, who buyed the photo for me, observed me and asked me if evertything is okay.
I told her, that my earphones were stolen. We went to the park chief and explaned them the situation.
He almost wanted to call the police and suddenly the boys came back with my earphones.
Afterwards I've got a real nice conversation with the woman, her husband and their nephew. They've spoken brilliant English.
They've invited me to visit some sights. Their idea was to see the Saad-Abad-Complex (garden of the shah).
Unfortunately it was closed. So we drove by car to the Milad Tower (6th tallest TV tower of the world).
Milad Tower 435 metres, 6th tallest TV tower in the world
The Milad Tower was a great experience, wonderful view of Tehran. In the tower basket were a lot of handicraft.
Music, lights, splendor and the people were happy.
After the visit of Milad Tower they invited me to dinner at their home. I accept, because I wanted to know how Persians live and eat.
They've got a pretty flat, very artfully and cozy furnished. Also with a typical persian carpet.
I also have got a simple carpet in my cheap hotel.
We've got a delicious, traditional dinner and the typical tea drink. And we talked also about politics.
Later I played chess with the nephew Hossein. I lost always unfortunately. Interesting: the modern chess is from persian origin.
The clock went to 0.30 am. Simas husband Mohamed drove me back to the hotel. The metro closes 10.30 pm.
I arrived late at 1.30pm. The receptionist seemed angry. I woke him up.
So I shouldn't arrive at late time.
I went 3.30 am to the bed and woke up 10 am, took a shower and was still tired, so I continued sleeping.
It is now 2.30 pm and it's time to do something.
The second day started not very exciting. I've slept off until noon. About 3pm I went out by hot midday sun.
I wanted to visit the museums, which where listed in my guide book.
But it was friday, the islamic sunday...
It seemed, that everything have been closed.
Anyway, I didn't find the entrance of the Tehran museum complex.
I walked a lot around, without reaching anything.
After a few kilometres I found an armenian church.
I visited the church and observed the praying people.
It seemed, that a few women prepared a wedding...
...because they laid a long white cloth on the church corridor...
...and a lot of heart jewelry...
Very interesting. A normal church like every other in Europe.
The church yard got a wall, but it's standard in Tehran. Anyway it was easy to entry the church. No security measures.
Visitors have got an easy entrance and are welcome.
Next I visited the former US embassy, but only from outside.
I had not known that it is possible to visit the embassy from inside. Today it's a museum.
Usually it's forbidden to take photos from embassies. I wasn't sure,that the former embassy belongs to the law.
My guidebook says that you could take photos secretly.
I've noticed a tourist who took photos of the propaganda wall of the embassy.
I asked him, if it is legal. He said to me: no risk, no fun!
His name was Steve, a globetrotter like me, from Sydney.
I walked with him, because I didn't know what to do on friday in Tehran. He brought us to an art gallery.
Entrance was free. It was very impressive. Also the Iranians have got an artistic taste.
After the art trip we have drunken non-alcoholic beer. I've chosen Holsten. Also in Iran they've got german beer, big surprise!
Thereafter we said goodbye. Steve went back to the hotel and I walked on Tehran alleys at night.
I ate the traditional Chelo Chicken Kebab in a snack stand. An Iraqi ordered it for me...
...because I didn't dared due to my language barrier. Anyway I could enjoy my tasty dinner.
That was the second day. Begun boring but with a happy end.
Saturday, the third day was very nice. I woke up early to experience a lot.
I began with a museum trip.
I visited first the Malek museum, an book and coins museum.
Afterwards the national museum of archeology. They were both very interesting.
Initial I didn't find them, because the map in my guidebook was to inexact. So I used Google maps.
Because they were museums I thought it's allowed to take photos from outside of them. They looked also really comely.
Mistakenly I took a photo of the ministry of foreign affairs what is absolutely forbidden. I thought it would be also a museum.
I noticed only later the label of the ministry and the hint of the photo-prohibition on the other side.
After the museum trip I did a small break in the city park alongside. I visited there a group of young people.
They waved at me. We've got a cheerful conversation.
I've twiged how the youth in Iran thinks and lives. We've talked giggly about youth topics.
Finally we've taken photo together. That was a really nice conversation.
GOLESTAN PALACE UNESCO World Heritage Site
Thereafter I've visited the bazaar next door. It's the biggest oriental indoor bazaar worldwide.
It was an experience, but not very interesting. The architecture was modest.
It was just a big accumulation of different shops. I didn't buy anything, just walked through it to visit it one time in my life.
But I drank there very delicious fresh lemon juice.
After the bazaar I've visited another armenian church. The church guard have spoken Englisch well - so we've got a smalltalk.
He allowed me to take a photo from the church from outside.
Simliar to the armenian church I've visited before. It certify that the christians and also the jews aren't pursued in Iran.
They've got their rights, privileges and right to exist. They built their big churches and synagoges in the middle of the city.
Certainly there are religious problems like in Europe, but Christs and Jews are not pursued in Iran.
After the visit in church the sun goes and I went to a café, listed in my guidebook, to drink something
The café war like an irish pub and, waiter spoke English well, the menue card was in English, too.
I ordered an César salad and a juice. The prices reached western standard (juice: about 2,50€).
But the ambience was nice and the salad and juice very delicious.
I saw out from the window of the café a shisha bar. So I visited it and ordered a apple-mint shisha.
One of the waiters befriended with me instantly. He was very fascinated to met a German in same age.
He spoke English well and fluently. We've got a very nice conversation and later he accompanied me back to the hotel.
The fourth day was a bit boring. I slept off again.
The breakfast was typical iranian.
Flatbread, feta cheese, jam and black tea.
For Persians breakfast is less important than lunch and dinner. But I became deplete.
After breakfast I wanted to visit the Azadi-Monument. But I get off two metro stations too early.
So I went by feed a long route to the monument during the hot midday sun.
So I went by feed a long route to the monument during the hot midday sun.
After the Azadi Monument I visited the Museum of Contemporary Art.
But It was not particularly interesting.
A gallery with quite artistic paintings, but not something fascinating. [Photos were prohibited.]
Alongside was the Carpet Museum. Also not really fascinating.
I already noticed carpets on the bazaar. The only visitor in the museum was me.
Well it was half past five. But I felt observed.
But it's an obligation for an Iran trip to eye up carpets, so I marveled at the historical handicraft.
Later I ordered french fries with chicken nuggets - quite delicious. I talked a bit with the seller.
But I was still hungry, so I went again to the shisha bar, where I've been yesterday to have dinner in a nice ambiance.
I ordered a suprise dinner, because I trust my friend Sina.
But it was a mistake - not really delicious - it was mutton (sheep)!
They told me that it is traditional food. "Traditional" sounded good for me.
Well, it was cheep/keen, I tried it one time - also a persian experience. After dinner I went back to hotel.
Monday, the fifth day. Got up late again. I went again to the north of Tehran to visit the mountains.
I went through the cozy bazaar of Tajrish without buying anything.
I wanted to drive with the cable railway in the mountains but I didn't really know where to find it.
I just find something in my map which could be something like a cable railway, but I wasn't sire.
I tried to go a shortcut by using an inofficial path. But it was a big mistake - I went into a blind alley.
The way ended as steep mountain scree. I wasted for this trip one hour and a lot of energy.
Thereafter I used the official way to reach the mountains.
I arrived late about 6pm at the district of Darband.
A really pretty place where the Tehranis relax and amuse.
A lot of pretty stores and restaurants between the mountain summits. The air was cleaner, no traffic noises, a great view of Tehran and a wonderful sunset.
But I didn't find a way to get higher. So I went back. Also I didn't to eat something suspecting expensive prices.
I found a cable railway station and reached it with an elevator. Though they've closed.
But I got on the platform a great view of Tehran by sunset. I really enjoyed it about one hour.
Alongside was a fine restaurant. I wasn't sure to enter it, because I didn't see any guests.
But little by little a few guests came, so I decided to follow them.
As might be aspected the prices were expensive for iranian circumstances, but comparable like an usual reataurant in Germany.
I ordered a cheesburger with french fries and non-alcoholic mojito, altogether about 10 €. Regrettably it took more than a hour.
But It was really lush and delicious. Aswell I got still the great view of Tehran.
After sunset the temperatures in the mountains also become really pleasant. I almost was a bit cold.
Once I finished my dinner about 9pm I hurried to get the last metro back to my hotel.
Tuesday, the 6th day in Tehran. And it becomes a bit boring here.
But fortunalety the nice hotel manager who have organized the reference number for my visa - Mr. Mousavi - returned from holidays.
He was happy to meet me after chattering a lot for organzing visa.
Also he wondered that I'm still in Tehran after six days and advised me: "Don`t waste your time in Tehran!"
I told him that I want to visit the Caspian Sea but he said to me that I won't find an available hotel room there because of vacation time.
He advised me to visit the travel agency next door to book a railway ticket to the small town Qazvin (150km from Tehran) for tonight.
Well, I trusted him and booked a ticket, without any expectations, but knowing that there a few pages about Qazvin in my guide book.
There were no complications by booking the ticket, because they spoke English and Mr. Mousavi also reserved a hotel in Qazvin for me.
Noon time - enough time to do something. I went again to the same place in the mountains where I was yesterday to drive the cable railway.
But they still have closed at tuesday afternoon. I found out that the cable railway only drives at weekend (thursday, friday).
Almost I wanted to leave the place disappointed and went back the long exhausting way incl. 20 km metro way.
But today I looked stricter and I found above a very small alley upward to the mountains. So I decided to go through.
I kept on going and it becomes higher and higher continiously. Yippie, there`s indeed a way!
Again and again there were here and there small kiosks, shish/hookah cafés and restaurants. I thought I wouldn't end.
So all the people I`ve sawn yesterday evening below at the entrance are wandering hither to these small alley between the mountains.
Well, I'm now somewhere in the mountains at a spring.
I hope the water is drinkable anyway I already drunk a little.
I'm gonna try to getting even higher. But not uppermost, because it's really exhausting and I have to get the train at 11pm in downtown.
The train will bring me to Qazvin, so I`ll visit another city as Tehran.
On my path in the mountains I saw some herders with their donkey who work for the goods transport.
Also I had a lot of great views of the mountain landscape. I really enjoyed.
A very beautiful view of the mountains including big Tehran.
I'm really happy that I did the trip to the mountains. Indeed I wasn't on a peak, but I yet I got a great view of the mountain landscape.
Now I`ll go down back to Tehran.
On the way back I buyed for 30.000 IRI (0,75€) a very delicious cup of ice cream.
Hello! Wednesday, 11th September. I left Tehran first time and I`m now in my hotel in Qazvin (350.000 IRI / 8,50 € for two beds incl. breakfast)
Qazvin was from 1548-98 the capital of the Safavid dynasty.
My train got in every cabin six beds. But I only could sleep for three hours until I reached my destination.
Time was from 11pm to 2am. I almost overslept my destination because arriving earlier. Coincidental I woke up and I heard outside quietly "Qazvin".
I was really shoked, picked up my bag and runned out of the train before it moved on. Meantime I lost a contact lense.
I took for 1km because of night time a taxi to my hotel. I checked into the hotel Mr Mousavi advised me.
Now after breakfast I'm gonna visit the city and at 5pm I`ll take the train back to Tehran.
Qazvin got a few interesting sights. Inter alia a tomb of a great Imam of the 9th century.
Also it is calmer than in busy, big Tehran. It`s worthseeing, something different as Tehran.
Travelling by train is in Iran because of the states subsidies very cheap!
I only paid less than 2 € (80.000 IRI) for 300km round trip.
Including a bottle water for one way, for return journey a piece cake and a juice pack.
The provisions alone almost cost the ticket price.
The comfort of the train back to Tehran was almost like first class in Germany.
Also I got first time in my life an interesting view of the Iranian landscape.
Thursday again. Wow, I'm now for a week in Iran. Still alive.
Yesterday I returned to hotel Firouzeh at evening. Mr Mousavi thought I would stay one more day in Qazvin.
Therefore all rooms were occupied, no room for me. So Mr. Mousavi advised me another hotel close by here.
[GERMAN TELEPHONE!!!]
Well, now I'm here in the makeshift shelter. 400.000 IRI (10€) for two beds. Not expensive, but also not a good hotel.
Dirty floor, shared showers.
No Wifi, no breakfast, no fridge, at least a halfway clean bed.
So I try to check into Firouzeh Hotel again.
Well, this noon and afternoon wasn't really exciting. I wanted to visit the Jewel Museum (world largest jewel collection), but they've closed.
And the zoroastrian fire temple was closed for visitors. They told me I have to come tommorow.
So I walked a lot around. Also I buyed an iranian simcard. 350.000 IRI (8,50€) with only 20.000 IRI (0,50€) credit.
Later I realized that they've ripped me. In expensive Germany it cost usually also 10€, certainly they give you 10€ credit and not 0,50€.
But I buyed it because I needed it urgently.
Afterwards I entered a self-service restaurant and buyed a portion Chelo Kabab and a coke for 6€ - really expensive for Iran.
Later I walked to the large Shahr park.
On the way two Tehranis picked me up. They recognized that I'm a foreigner because of my guide book in my hand.
Father and son. The father (Arabic translator) couldn't speak English, so I talked more than two hours with the son.
He's studying English and French and he also makes socio-critical movies. We've talked a lot about politics in Germany and Iran.
In between times the father standed us vanilla ice cream.
Very interesting conversation. I learned again something about politic and everydays life in Iran.
They invited me to their home but I had to reject because...
... I went to the 17th birthday party of Hosein.
Hosein was the nephew of the couple I met on my first day - Sima and Mohamed.
They invited me and I met them again after a week.
It was a really nice party - for me an unique experience.
We were about 20 people. Children were also present. I got to know first time how Persians are celebrating.
Different than in Germany. They are dancing a lot for example. And by the way - the dinner was brilliant!
A really successful evening! And tommorow I'm gonna move to Shiraz.
Well I'm now in my bed in the train to Shiraz.
I have to share my cabin with a woman and her two daughters.
Of course she has got a problem to share the cabin with me, a man. So she talked a lot with the conducters and passengers.
Also she asked for my ticket, but we both are according to the ticket in the right cabin.
Well, I'm insecure. According to the Islamic law it's of course forbidden. But it seems to be the Status-quo.
Of course I've retreated here into my bed and behave really friendly and quiet.
Presumable of apology for all the trouble the woman shared with me her sandwiches.
Really nice, and very delicious. I was hungry, but I had no food except the cake, juice pack and water from the train.
Now I'm replete. Very friendly and considerate from the woman.
I still will be quiet and calm. The train journey takes 16 hours and about 900km.
I have to sleep here. Unfortunately there's no shower in the train.
But I'll survive and tommorow at 11am I'll be in a quite different city.
Friday, the 13th wasn't really exciting. After I slept late I wanted to visit a synagogue, but I didn't find.
Near of the metro station I lighted upon a big mosque.
And I saw lot of people walking in direction to the mosque. Strangely also in short-sleeved shirts.
I was wondered at the short-sleeved shirts, because my guide book told me you have to wear long-sleeve clothes by visiting a mosque.
Well, it was friday, the holy islamic day like sunday for christians.
I thought - if they all visit short-sleeved the mosque - I pilgrim with them - also short-sleeved.
Curiously the mosque was unter construction work, so I supposed that they use a rear entrance.
I really supposed that they all are going to pray!
But no, they all went into a fair for consumer electronic. I was amazed about the range they offer.
Anyway it was also interesting to visit a fair of consumer electronic in the Islamic Republic.
You could see that also the Iran has got a certain prosperity. For some it's possible to afford these expensive products.
Ironically I experienced the first time in my life in this iranian fair a 4K Ultra HD Television. Very interesting.
As I told - it won't walk that the woman and their daughters overnight with me in the same cabin.
But she was evermore friendly and shared her dinner with me. Certainly to apologize the circumstances.
Because the conductors requested me to change the cabin.
I wasn't overly excited about changing the cabin with my heavy case by temperaturs over 30°C after relaxing in my bed.
But I had to do it so I did. Ridiculously enough they brought me in a cabin where have been also a woman.
Well, she was old - but yet female! Of course she refused the decision however she argued with the conducters. But first I had to stay there.
I had a rest just about one hour until two young women entered the cabin and the conducters requested me again to change.
At this moment I was really angry. Again I had to get down my case and walked sweating through the corridor.
Initially the conductor not even helped we with my heavy case until I grumbled angry. Exorbitant to push me two times.
In my new cabin there have been only men. Annoyed I retreated to my bed without any attention to my neighbors.
But the guys in my cabin noticed that I'm a foreigner and wanted to communicate with me. They shared with me their fruits and soybeans.
They knew just very little words English but nonverbal and with help of Google translator we had a difficult but funny conversation.
I woke up at 8am and we had the traditional breakfast with bread, feta cheese, marmalade and black tea.
Later I enjoyed the iranian landscape, we continued our conversation and took some photos together.
We arrived at 11am at the train station near Shiraz. The guys looked for a taxi for me and we said goodbye.
My blond, blue-eyed taxi driver spoke English fluently. We talked a lot during he brought me to my hotel in Shiraz city.
The accomodation Mr Mousavi advised me was a really ambient, clean and nice traditional hostel.
With a nice small courtyard inner yard to relax including a fountain in the middle. My room looks like a hobbit-hole.
In the inner yard I relished my lunch which the woman of the hotel director cooked.
The taxi driver offered me to drive me half-day to Nekropolis & Persepolis for 30 US-$.
Later I'm gonna take a bus to Isfahan.
After the delicious lunch (rice, chicken, salad and honey melon) in the inner yard of my hotel I explored Shiraz.
As you can see I got now a great of Shiraz where I enjoyed the sunset. Now they all turn on the lightings.
Before I visited the famous castle of Shiraz and a museum of ancient ornaments in a beautiful garden. Very interesting!
PERSEPOLIS - UNESCO world heritage - founded 581 B.C. by king Darius I.
Well, the taxi driver drove me after breakfast at 8am to Nekropolis and Persepolis.
Very imperessive and interesting! A lot of history to experience.
Pity, that the most of Persepolis have been destroyed, inter alia by Alexander the Great. But still impressive. Sure, it was one of the most monumental buildings ever.
An architectural masterpiece.
Indeed we've got "only" a temperature of 29°C in shadow, but I'm walking here around for hours by the hot sunrays. Exhausting!
It's my third water bottle after three hours.
Later I'll take a bus to Isfahan. I hope I'll arive healthy.
Now I'm gonna visit pending attractions of Persepolis.
Persepolis was great and the main reason why I traveled the long 900km way to Shiraz. That's why I stayed just for one day.
But I really regreted it because Shiraz was so a beautiful, lovely, modern and traditional city.
And not to many traffic and smog like in Tehran.
So I traveled via Persepolis and Isfahan big step back to Tehran where I'll take my return flight on wednesday.
Seven hours bus travel.
My taxi driver told me that it's easily to find a free seat to Isfahan without reservation.
I trust him, but it wasn't easily. After he searched and negotiated half-hour he organized a exception seat for me.
Exceptionally they'll stop only for me in Isfahan. Very nice.
V.I.P. bus (about 460km / 300.000 IRI [7,30€]).
Enough legroom, air conditioner, snack pack. I liked the bus.
We started at 4pm and I arrived about 11.30pm.
At beginning they often stopped for a few minutes and went out of the bus. I don't know why.
Entering the country of Isfahan the bus stopped only because of me, the only foreign passenger, for passport control.
The reason: Isfahan is the center of nuclear energy.
The police man "studied" my passport with a flashlight for minutes. Maybe he looked for a fake or Israeli stamps.
I was a bit afraid. The police man asked me if speak English, I answered "yes", than he asked me if I speak Persian, I answered "no".
Immediately he gave me my passport back and I could continue traveling.
Wanted he interrogate me if I speak Persian? Why he asked me for English, if he can't speakt it? Strange...
Now I'm in my hotel in Isfahan. It's modest but clean.
2-bed-room, breakfast, situated in downtown for 640.000 IRI (15,60€) in holiday season. A good price.
Now I got a headache because of the hot sun and I didn't drink enough.
And tommorow I'm gonna explore the famous Isfahan.
Monday, the second last day in Iran. At 8am I had again the traditional breakfast with bread, feta cheese, jam and black tea.
I woke up early to experience a lot.
First I went to a travel agency close to my hotel as my guide book told me and saved for tommorow a bus ticket to Tehran Airport for my return flight.
Booking was no problem. Of course they spoke English in the travel agency.
Thereafter I wanted to visit a synagogue. But I didn't find it, either it was well hidden or the map of my guide book was inexact.
But I vistited the jewish district to convince how the jews living in the Islamic Republic.
Well it was a quite common oriental quarter offside of the big traffic. No ghetto. In the middle-age also was known as the "jewish city".
I strolled around through the traditional streets of Isfahan. A nice oriental atmosphere.
About 1pm it was lunchtime and I entered a cheap restaurant my guide book adivsed me.
Really delicious traditional food.
After lunch I visited the grande basaar of Isfahan and looked for some souvenirs.
When I went through the exit of the basaar I stood suddenly on the grande and famous Imam Square.
The Imam Square is one of the largest squares world wide and one of UNESCO world heritage sites.
Former the elite used the square for their polo games. Today the people strolling, picnicing and driving horse-drawn carriage there.
Tourist are marveling at the historical, grande architecture.
Visiting the square at 2pm was unfavorable. The sun shined very hot and on the square were no shady place to rest.
So I fled back into the basaar and planned to visit the square again when the sun goes down.
A few minutes after entering the basaar a casket artisan addressed me, spoke a bit German an showed me his handicraft.
Very original, traditional handicraft. Of course he wanted to sell me something.
He persuaded me to buy one casket for 400.000 IRI (9,75€).
Very interesting: the national german newspaper "Süddeutsche Zeitung" reported him 2005.
He showed me the scrapped article very proudly.
Right next door someone adressed me again and wanted to show me their handmade textile printing.
Out of sheer curiosity i followed him. I met his brother during he printed the carpet-like textiles.
Also the german ex-chancellor Gerhard Schröder visited this family business.
The printed carpets were very beautiful and I realized how many handwork it contains. Very interesting.
Later after the japanese a german travel group entered in the chamber. I could here the German language.
Spontaneously I approached them in Germany. They were surprised and I was really amused.
Spontaneously I approached them in Germany. They were pleasantly surprised and I was really amused.
Also a workmate of this store spoke in German to us. I felt a bit displaced back to my homeland. What a great experience.
The tradesman persuaded me to buy lovely textile print for an indeed very keen price of 23€ (in Germany about 80€ and more). We made a deal.
A great souvenir.
Later the German travel group, majoritarian retirees, invited me for a tea in a traditional tea house. I agreed.
So we went into a cozy tea house and exchanged views about our travels by drinking tea.
They were fascinated to meet me, a very young German in the middle of the isolated Islamic Republic.
Their two female tourguides adviced me some sights in Isfahan and later we had to say goodbye. A lovely meeting.
I went again into the basaar to buy honey, shisha/hookah tobacco and their traditional, white pistachios-sugar candy called Gaz.
At 6pm I brought my purchase to my hotel room and went back to the illuminated great Imam Square.
A lot of people picniced now and strolled around. A very romantic atmosphere.
I took a lot of photos and enjoyed the view.
A man invited me to drink tea with his family members on their picnic carpet.
Also a great, unique experience.
Later a young man suddenly asked me in German if I speak German. I was very surprised.
We conversed a bit but he can't speak really German. He only tried to acquire customers for his carpets.
He told me that he recognized on my behaviour that I'm German. Funny, what a lie. Sure, he tried some languages until I understood something.
He invited me to his store and we drank tea. There worked four our five men. But I told him, that I don't wanna buy a carpet.
Later I visited a famous acient bridge of Isfahan. Built 1602, lightened at night, very beautiful.
Unfortunately the river had absolutely no water because of the dry season and economic exploiting.
It was the first time I saw a river without any water. I even walked over the riverbed.
After the river and bridge sight I went back to downtown.
Conspicuous in Isfahan is the light decoration over all the arterial roads. They're glowing all-year. It looks a bit like christmas time.
It gives Isfahan a very ambient and romantic atmosphere. A very good idea! I liked it really!
Late at 10pm I became hungry and looked for some food.
A friendly man in his hot-dog booth called out to me, smiled and made a very delicioous, big hot-dog (40.000 IRI / 1€) for me.
Fortunately they spoke a bit English. Nice, smiling guys.
I went with my hot-dog to a ambient park and relished my dinner.
The clock turned to 12pm and it was time to go back to hotel. I had to sleep to wake up early at my last day in Iran.
JAME MOSQUE OF ISFAHAN UNESCO world heritage site
By area the largest mosque of Iran. Built 772 A.D.
another mosque
Unhappily today is my last day in Iran.
After breakfast I visited the famous Jamé Mosque.
Later I visited again a cheap restaurant adivsed by my guide book. But I was strangely the only guest in the hole restaurant.
Afterwards I wanted to visit two museums but I didn't find really the entrance.
So I'm sitting here in the park, enjoy my last german-iranian Hoffenberg beer.
Then I'm gonna take my case in the hotel and order a taxi which will bring me to the bus station.
The bus will bring me to Tehran Airport. And my plain will bring me back to Germany.
The travel evidence of the German foreign office were frightening and misinterpretations.
Allthough I knew that not everything was true and excessive, I entered Iran with a queasy feeling.
But as you can see - I'm returned healthy and made a lot of great experiences in my adventure.
Also I'm lucky that I traveled alone - that made the hole travel to a big adventure for me.
I hope you enjoyed my movie, I hope you could also experience a bit the Iran.
And I also can recommend everybody to visit this country, too. It's so beautiful and you'll return with great experinces.
Maybe we'll met us again in a next travel film.
A film by Daniel Seidel
4th to 18th of September 2013
TRAVEL TO IRAN
Well, I returned just now in Germany healthy. As I told you - it works!
GOODBYE!